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MIGHT HAVE FIGURED IT OUT. Don't hold me to this being the only solution, but it turns out despite my vaccum reading -22mmhg, I changed my injector seals with oem ones and lubed them up with Vaseline. Popped them back in and despite the fuel rail being empty of fuel the car started quickly and didnt stall out!! The car now idles pretty good with the o2 sensors on, fluctuating between 13.9-15.7 AFRs at 13.5 degrees of timing advance. Maybe I'm having good luck with the warm weather in Massachussetts, but I'll update in a few days to see if anything changes! I hope this helps guys!

I've had and been working on this issue since last spring with no avail, and also can't get ahold of them now. About to dump this kit and go RK. Happy to know it's not just my car being a freak.

I'm sorry to hear that Chris91e30! I might change my tps sensor as well and maybe mess with some timing because that's where I'm at so far. Ill post of any headway I make once I go home for spring break this weekend. Is there any way to tag Brody or MillerP to this thread? I've been trying to contact them over the phone and email with no luck  .

guys i am trying to download the war program to another computer that i have. but i cant seem to find  the link on the main webiste homepage to do so. lol somebody please help me out here i wanna get my new computer working with the software.

hey there guys, ive had the turbo tunning kit in my m50 swapped e30 and have had the exact same issues. ive swapped the dme and that didnt change , o2 on and off made no difference either. ive even turned the fuel in the idle tables to zero and can still start the car without issue and t still idles anywhere from 10.6 to 11afr with a little surging once its warmed up. ive tried different gaps on the plugs and even crazy timing changes just to see wat would happen and have had zero luck. i work for bmw and even im baffled. i also swapped the tps sensor for another one out of a another car in the shop and no change. i even put e85 in the car so it would lean out but only did so in part throttle the idle still drops into the 10s with e85! driving me crazy

Thanks for the detailed reply and apologies that I didn't get back to you for a year!  I ended up caving in and pulling the injectors to do some detective work.  I was sick of trying to fine tune the FPR to compensate for some unknown injectors.  As it happened, I was running single pintle 14# stock injectors!  I pulled the adjustable FPR and threw in the stock one, and replaced the single pintles for some true 19# rebuilt injectors.  Once the car is warm, it idles superbly.  I've noticed that since this change, the car hates off throttle idling when cold.  The car will almost stall, then catch itself, almost stall, catch itself again, then return to a normal idle.  This only happens when the car is stone cold.  Once it's even slightly warm, the issue goes away.  This leads me to believe it's either the temperature sender or a vacuum leak.  Another thing that should be noted is that if I reset the ECU (unplug battery), the car idles fine when cold, this issue only presents itself after adaptions have completed.  I'm taking it to the shop (once I'm back from Afghanistan in May) to have them do a vacuum test and check the vitals.  I do, however, have a question or two for you...

I took the car to the track (mid ohio) in August of 2015 and noticed a few things I'd like to fix before next year..  Chief among which is a stall/stutter/hesitation in the middle of the rev range, around 3500-5500 RPM.  It pulls fine until 3500, then the torque all-but disappears and reappears with a vengeance at 5-5500 RPM to redline.  I'm using your off the shelf PSIK/19#/Exhaust tune, for what it's worth.  Obviously I will want to eliminate the possibility of mechanical faults to the best of my ability, so I will ensure the car is free of any vacuum leaks and is producing strong spark before I proceed with any tuning or chasing any mechanical faults.  My first question is, does this sound like a mechanical fault or is it a result of the wrong spark plugs, or poor tuning? I'm on stock plugs at the European spec gap (.0032) due to my European spec engine. Otherwise the car performs great, it held together fantastically through 4 sessions, but as the temperature rose, the problem presented itself more and more.

My next question is, if I decide to take it to a shop for a dyno tune (if you think it's worth it), do you have any recommended shops in the Cincinnati/Dayton Ohio area that you've worked with in the past?  It'd be nice to work with someone who is familiar with your program if at all possible.

I've tried it on, off, everything. No change. Understood on the lack of time! The cold New England weather with no garage to currently use plus work and my family are slowing my wrench time. I've tried emailing and calling Miller with no response, slowly losing faith in this setup especially when a compression and boost/vacuum test both check out okay on my motor and my entire fuel system is new, injectors have been flow tested and have new filters, TPS is new, ICV is functioning properly, crank and cam sensors are new, MAF is clean and only has 1000 miles on it, the only things left are the air metering and ECU/tune. I'm actually on a silver label DME, I may bite the bullet and buy a red label to try (I hate spending money on shots in the dark), but after that this car is either getting a standalone/some other tuning setup or parted out. I'm very much over this at this point all last year it sat as I tried troubleshooting it, and have had other certified mechanic and BMW mechanic and insane gear head friends all get baffled by it still having issues. I don't want to band aid it, I want to fix it.

Quick random thought/update: upon doing some research of the VANOS system (for my engineering research paper ), I realized that the vanos system retards the intake camshafts at idle. Getting to the point, I've never turned vanos ON, or set it at any of the VANOS control tab functions since I got the car running. Could selecting the "5300 (stock)" tab help with the issue or not at all? Cheers

Thanks for your input bulletholez!

In regards to my BOV, I've tried clamping down the vacuum supply so that it would stay closed at idle just to further diagnose my issues with no luck. I do agree though that turbulence could be an issues, which is why I'm in search of a stiffer spring for it. To answer your ASC question: Yes, my car came with it from the factory, but I don't think I switched the plugs between the TPS and the ASC (since there's no check engine light whatsoever). I doubt any of the WAR chip/turbo kit hardware is faulty, but rather we have some mechanical issue we're overlooking  .

Unfortunately I'm not gonna be able to further diagnose my issues until early March (my spring break from college), BUT the things that I am planning to do are:
-Replace the TPS sensor (I took resistance values and didn't get exactly a variable 1-4kohm upon opening the throttle, but more like variable 1.45-4kohm. Not sure if that's enough of a difference to need replacement, but I thought I'd do so to rule it out as being part of the issue).
-Check for Vacuum leaks (I'm gonna start by doing the old brake cleaner trick, spray around intake plumbing and observe for idle surge to find a leak)
-Unplugging the ASC (if that does anything)
-Check compression values
-Check Fuel Pressure/change fuel filter
-Trying different Crankcase vent methods (I'm not sure if I'm pulling enough of a vacuum from the crankcase, nor am I sure if that could contribute to the overall idling issue)

Regardless, I'll also stay active for any updates you may have (forgive me for delayed responses, for I am overloaded with schoolwork/work/etc.) and will post further any headway I make as well! We got this!

Hey man! Glad your car is running great! I have literally this EXACT same issue that I've had 0 luck solving. Still trying to troubleshoot it to this day. I'm pulling about 20in of vacuum at idle and it loses it as it leans out, until a quick feather and back to rich idle. BOV being open as it's still metered air as it's pre-MAF shouldn't cause issue, unless it's causing turbulence. Random question, but was your car equipped with ASC from factory? This may sound weird, but my car ran GREAT when I first put it together, but I actually had my TPS plugged into the ASC "TPS" plug but obviously forever had a CEL for no TPS. Once I realized I had it in the wrong plug I corrected that, and my CEL went away, but that's when my problems started. I actually slowly started getting more lean conditions over the course of driving it. this may sound stupid but I'm out of options, I'm going to try and splice the ASC and TPS cables so the ECU sees response from "both". I'm really out of options unless my brand new MAF is bad or some other sensor that controls idle circuit that I don't know about went out... but even O2 sensors on/off still nothing. I'll check back every once in a while to see if you make any leway and if I find anything I'll post it up here. We can't be the only two with this problem! My build is very similar to yours also, could small differences that wouldn't do anything. I've changed the FPR on my car as well as flow tested my injectors to no avail.