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Naturally Aspirated Tuning / Re: Struggling to find a balance
« on: February 20, 2016, 10:40:09 PM »
Thanks for the detailed reply and apologies that I didn't get back to you for a year! I ended up caving in and pulling the injectors to do some detective work. I was sick of trying to fine tune the FPR to compensate for some unknown injectors. As it happened, I was running single pintle 14# stock injectors! I pulled the adjustable FPR and threw in the stock one, and replaced the single pintles for some true 19# rebuilt injectors. Once the car is warm, it idles superbly. I've noticed that since this change, the car hates off throttle idling when cold. The car will almost stall, then catch itself, almost stall, catch itself again, then return to a normal idle. This only happens when the car is stone cold. Once it's even slightly warm, the issue goes away. This leads me to believe it's either the temperature sender or a vacuum leak. Another thing that should be noted is that if I reset the ECU (unplug battery), the car idles fine when cold, this issue only presents itself after adaptions have completed. I'm taking it to the shop (once I'm back from Afghanistan in May) to have them do a vacuum test and check the vitals. I do, however, have a question or two for you...
I took the car to the track (mid ohio) in August of 2015 and noticed a few things I'd like to fix before next year.. Chief among which is a stall/stutter/hesitation in the middle of the rev range, around 3500-5500 RPM. It pulls fine until 3500, then the torque all-but disappears and reappears with a vengeance at 5-5500 RPM to redline. I'm using your off the shelf PSIK/19#/Exhaust tune, for what it's worth. Obviously I will want to eliminate the possibility of mechanical faults to the best of my ability, so I will ensure the car is free of any vacuum leaks and is producing strong spark before I proceed with any tuning or chasing any mechanical faults. My first question is, does this sound like a mechanical fault or is it a result of the wrong spark plugs, or poor tuning? I'm on stock plugs at the European spec gap (.0032) due to my European spec engine. Otherwise the car performs great, it held together fantastically through 4 sessions, but as the temperature rose, the problem presented itself more and more.
My next question is, if I decide to take it to a shop for a dyno tune (if you think it's worth it), do you have any recommended shops in the Cincinnati/Dayton Ohio area that you've worked with in the past? It'd be nice to work with someone who is familiar with your program if at all possible.
I took the car to the track (mid ohio) in August of 2015 and noticed a few things I'd like to fix before next year.. Chief among which is a stall/stutter/hesitation in the middle of the rev range, around 3500-5500 RPM. It pulls fine until 3500, then the torque all-but disappears and reappears with a vengeance at 5-5500 RPM to redline. I'm using your off the shelf PSIK/19#/Exhaust tune, for what it's worth. Obviously I will want to eliminate the possibility of mechanical faults to the best of my ability, so I will ensure the car is free of any vacuum leaks and is producing strong spark before I proceed with any tuning or chasing any mechanical faults. My first question is, does this sound like a mechanical fault or is it a result of the wrong spark plugs, or poor tuning? I'm on stock plugs at the European spec gap (.0032) due to my European spec engine. Otherwise the car performs great, it held together fantastically through 4 sessions, but as the temperature rose, the problem presented itself more and more.
My next question is, if I decide to take it to a shop for a dyno tune (if you think it's worth it), do you have any recommended shops in the Cincinnati/Dayton Ohio area that you've worked with in the past? It'd be nice to work with someone who is familiar with your program if at all possible.